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Fabulous 2009 Bordeaux: 2012 UGC Tasting

2012 January 22


2009 BORDEAUX AT 2012 UGC TASTING – Bentley Reserve, San Francisco, California (1/21/2012)

I always look forward to the annual Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting, which kicks off the year for major tastings. It gives an unusually broad perspective on a major region, and is completely focused on the latest vintage to be bottled. I was particularly excited about sampling the much ballyhooed 2009s. Despite the major Occupy Wall Street West demonstration that tied up all of Market Street downtown, bringing traffic to a crawl and making it impossible to park where I’d originally planned, I made it to the event only a few minutes late. I then managed to taste through 92 wines from 82 producers, including retastes of several of my favorites. I tasted through all but one of the whites, all the Sauternes and my high priority reds, but many of the reds were all poured out within an hour or so. Most producers only had five or six bottles on hand. I therefore missed out on Chateaux Batailley, Canon, La Gaffeliere, Gazin, Grand-Puy-Lacoste, La Lagune, Lascombes, and a few other Margaux.

I am delighted to report that there are lots of supple and delicious wines in this vintage. Overall, it was the best showing of any UGC Bordeaux event I’ve attended since the 2000 vintage. Many of the wines were the best new vintages I’ve tasted from the represented producers. The showing overall was better than 2005 and at least as good as 2000, but with less in the way of hard tannins than either of those vintages. Tannin levels are supposed to be quite high in 2009, but they are ripe and sweet tannins which, together with the relatively high alcohol levels and overall ripeness, have yielded wines that are remarkably approachable now, and that should also age quite well. I thought the whites, from Graves and Pessac-Léognan, were remarkably good. The reds were good from all over, especially the Left Bank appellations St. Julien, Pauillac and Pessac-Léognan, and the Right Bank appellations St. Émilion and Pomerol. There are also some very good Sauternes from 2009 as well, although many are lacking the lively acidity one expects from the very best Sauternes.

Bottom line: much of the hype for this vintage is, in my opinion, justified. The ripe fruit absorbed the oak treatments much better than the prior few years, and the sheer deliciousness and appealing nature of the vintage, from top to bottom, is pretty self evident. I don’t think it’s quite a top vintage for Sauternes, due to lower than ideal acidities, but it’s a very good one. For white and red Bordeaux, it doesn’t get much better than this.

Below are my tasting notes for all 92 wines, organized by appellation. The most impressive wines, for me, at this event, which I rated 93 points or higher were:
Whites
2009 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc – 93+ points
2009 Château de Fieuzal Blanc – 93 points
2009 Château Haut-Bergey Blanc – 93 points
2009 Château La Tour-Martillac Blanc – 93 points
2009 Château Olivier Blanc – 93+ points
2009 Château Pape Clément – 94 points

Reds
2009 Château Beychevelle – 93 points
2009 Château Clinet – 93 points
2009 Domaine de Chevalier – 93 points
2009 Château Figeac – 94 points
2009 Château Gruaud Larose – 94 points
2009 Château Haut-Bailly – 93 points
2009 Château La Conseillante – 93 points
2009 Château Langoa Barton – 93 points
2009 Château Léoville Barton – 94 points
2009 Château Lynch-Bages – 94 points
2009 Château Olivier – 93+ points
2009 Château Pape Clément – 95+ points
2009 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron – 94 points
2009 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande – 94 points
2009 Château Talbot – 95 points
2009 Château Troplong Mondot – 94+ points
2009 Clos Fourtet – 93+ points

Sauternes/Barsac
2009 Château Climens – 94 points
2009 Château Coutet – 93+ points
2009 Château de Rayne-Vigneau – 93 points
2009 Château Guiraud – 94 points
2009 Château Suduiraut – 94 points

Graves/Pessac-Léognan

  • 2009 Château Carbonnieux Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light yellow color; smoky, lemon grass, lime nose; tasty, smoky, lemon grass, lime palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points (60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon) (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Carbonnieux – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; tart currant, pencil lead nose; poised, tart currant, pencil lead palate; needs 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Chantegrive Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves
    Light medium golden color; appealing, Semillon, light pepper, smoke nose; tart citron, grapefruit, smoke, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Chantegrive – France, Bordeaux, Graves
    Dark ruby color; oak, coffee, green olive nose; tasty, tart currant, olive palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light yellow color; complex, tart citron, mineral, tart orange nose; tasty, oily textured, tart citron, mineral, tart orange palate; needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine de Chevalier – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark maroon color; appealing, berry, roasted berry, roast coffee nose; soft, roasted berry, coffee, pencil lead, cassis palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Fieuzal Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light golden yellow color; appealing, lightly smoky, lemon grass nose; tasty, concentrated, tart citrus, smoke, mineral palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Fieuzal – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Very dark red violet color; violet, ripe currant nose; tart currant, violet palate; needs 5-plus years; medium-plus finish (55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon) (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Haut-Bailly – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; currant, violet, cedar, vanilla nose; tasty, tight, tart cassis, violet palate; needs 4 years; medium-plus finish (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc) (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Haut-Bergey Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light yellow color; smoke, oak, tart citronella, light pepper nose; tasty, complex, smoke, tart citron, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon) (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Haut-Bergey – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark red violet color; violet, cassis, tart currant, camphor nose; tasty, violet, cassis, tart currant, camphor palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot) (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light lemon yellow color; oak, smoky nose; silky textured, tart citron, oak, tart pineapple palate; medium finish (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; redolent, tart currant, olive, tart plum nose; tart currant, cedar, olive, tart plum palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Tour-Martillac Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light yellow color; smoke, tart citron nose; tasty, poised, oily textured, tart citron, smoke, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Tour-Martillac – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; tart cassis, bacon fat, gravel nose; tart currant, tart raspberry, gravel palate; needs 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light yellow color; tart citron, lemon nose; lemon, tart citron, lime palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Malartic-Lagravière – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; redolent, tart currant, cedar nose; tart currant, cedar palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish 90+ points (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot) (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Olivier Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light yellow color; smoke, lemon grass nose; tasty, smoke, lemon grass, lime, mineral palate; long finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Olivier – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; gravel, roasted plum, raspberry nose; tasty, raspberry, tart cassis, gravel, roasted plum, cedar palate; medium-plus finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Pape Clément Blanc – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light lemon yellow color; focused, intriguing, citron, mineral nose; tasty, focused, oily textured, tart citron, mineral palate; long finish (48% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, 6% Sauvignon Gris, 6% Muscadelle) (94 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Pape Clément – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; appealing, violet, cedar, cassis, plum nose; tasty, tight, tart plum, cassis, cedar palate; long finish 95+ points (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc) (95 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte – France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Dark ruby color; raspberry, cassis nose; tasty, tight, cassis, tart cherry, cedar palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)

St. Émilion

  • 2009 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Very dark red violet color; focused cassis, tart currant nose; tasty, ripe currant, cedar palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Berliquet – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; tart currant, olive nose; tart currant, olive palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish 88+ points (73% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon) (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; very appealing, cassis, cherry, cedar nose; tight, cedar, tart cassis, tart plum palate; needs 7-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Figeac – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; appealing, tart currant, pencil lead, cedar nose; plush but elegant, ripe currant, cassis, cedar, pencil lead palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish (94 pts.)
  • 2009 Clos Fourtet – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; poised, elegant, plum, roasted plum nose; tart plum, violet, tar, cedar palate; needs 5-plus years; long finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Grand Mayne – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Very dark red violet color; ripe currant, plum nose; tart currant, cedar palate; needs 5-plus years; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Couspaude – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Very dark red violet color; ripe currant, cedar nose; tasty, ripe currant, cedar, tart cherry palate; needs 2-plus years; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Dominique – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Very dark ruby color; cedar, ripe currant, herbaceous nose; tasty, tart currant, cedar, herbaceous, oak palate; needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Larcis Ducasse – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; cassis nose; tasty, cassis, light menthol palate; needs 1-2 years; medium-plus finish 90+ points (81% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc) (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Larmande – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; cedar, tart currant nose; tight, tart currant, tart red plum, cedar, oak palate; needs 4 years; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Pavie Macquin – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; violet, berry, cassis nose; hedonistic, berry, vanilla, cassis palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Soutard – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Dark ruby color; focused cassis nose; tasty, tart cassis, tart cherry palate; needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Troplong Mondot – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Very dark red violet color; aromatic, pencil lead, cassis nose; plush, cassis, pencil lead, plum palate; needs 3-4 years; medium-plus finish 94+ points (90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3 % Cabernet Franc) (94 pts.)

Pomerol

  • 2009 Château Beauregard – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    Dark red violet color; appealing, ripe cassis, plum, cedar nose; focused, ripe cassis, plum, cedar palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc) (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Clinet – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    Very dark red violet color; appealing, tart cassis, menthol, black fruit nose; plush, tasty, tart black fruit, plum, menthol palate; needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish (85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Cabanne – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    Dark ruby color; oak, ripe currant nose; oak, ripe currant, cassis, plum palate; for early drinking; medium finish (92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc) (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Conseillante – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    Dark ruby color; elegant, cassis, menthol, cedar nose; tasty, elegant, tart cassis, cedar palate; needs 5-6 years; medium-plus finish (81% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc) (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Pointe – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    Very dark red violet color; pencil lead, currant nose; pencil lead, tart currant palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc) (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Petit Village – France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    Dark red violet color; tart currant, olive nose; olive, tart currant palate; for early drinking; medium finish (75% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc) (88 pts.)

Listrac-Médoc and Moulis en Médoc

  • 2009 Château Clarke – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; pencil lead, tart plum nose; tart plum, pencil lead palate; medium-plus finish (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Chasse-Spleen – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; tart currant, menthol nose; tasty, tart currant, menthol palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Maucaillou – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; tart currant, roasted plum nose; tart currant, roasted plum palate; medium finish (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Poujeaux – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; currant, plum, oak nose; ripe currant, oak palate; medium finish (88 pts.)

Médoc and Haut-Médoc

  • 2009 Château Beaumont – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; menthol, olive, herbaceous nose; menthol, olive, herbaceous palate; medium finish (53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot) (86 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Belgrave – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; violet, cassis nose; ripe cassis,, plum, violet, oak palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Cantemerle – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Opaque red violet color; roasted coffee, currant nose; tasty, plush, tart currant, coffee palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Citran – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; big, tart plum, cassis nose; tart plum, cassis palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Camensac – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; lifted, tart currant nose; tasty, tart currant, tart plum palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Coufran – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Dark ruby color; olive, tart currant nose; green olive, tart currant, Cab Franc palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Greysac – France, Bordeaux, Médoc
    Very dark red violet color; green olive, currant nose; green olive, currant palate; for early drinking; medium finish (58% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot) (87 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Tour Carnet – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
    Dark ruby color; focused, cassis nose; tasty, cassis, plum, oak palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Tour de By – France, Bordeaux, Médoc
    Dark ruby color; oak, olive, currant nose; oak, olive, currant palate; for early drinking; medium finish (86 pts.)

Margaux

St. Julien

Pauillac

  • 2009 Château Croizet-Bages – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Very dark red violet color; tart currant, olive nose; olive, tart currant palate; for early drinking; medium finish (86 pts.)
  • 2009 Château d’Armailhac – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Very dark red violet color; tart currant, light olive nose; tasty, ripe currant, olive palate; medium-plus finish (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot) (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Haut-Bages Libéral – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Very dark red violet color; focused, tart currant nose; tasty, tart currant, herbaceous palate with green notes; needs 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Lynch-Bages – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Dark ruby color; lovely pencil lead, tart currant, cassis nose; tasty, tight, elegant, tart currant, pencil lead palate; needs 6-7 years; medium-plus finish (76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot) (94 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Dark ruby color; aromatic, tobacco, green herbs, tart currant nose; focused, tart currant, green herbs, camphor palate; needs 3-plus years; long finish (67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot) (94 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Dark ruby color; appealing, focused, elegant, tart cassis, cedar nose; tight but plush, cedar, cassis, currant palate; needs 7-plus years; long finish (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot) (94 pts.)

St. Estèphe

  • 2009 Château Cos Labory – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Dark ruby color; pencil lead, ripe currant nose; tasty, ripe currant, pencil lead palate; for early drinking; medium finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Pez – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Dark ruby color; redolent currant nose; tart currant palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish 88+ points (47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot) (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Lafon-Rochet – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Dark red violet color; tart currant, menthol nose; tart currant, menthol palate; for early drinking; medium finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Les Ormes de Pez – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Dark ruby color; appealing, tart currant, herbaceous nose; tasty, tart currant, cedar, tart cherry palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (a relatively good value) (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Phélan Ségur – France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Dark ruby color; appealing, tart currant, lifted nose; tasty, tart currant, tart plum palate; for early drinking; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)

Barsac and Sauternes


  • 2009 Château Bastor-Lamontagne – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light golden color; appealing, apricot, botrytis nose; ripe apricot, sugared apricot, coconut palate with good acidity; long finish (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Climens – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
    Light golden color; ravishing, floral, baked apricot nose; delicious, youthful, baked apricot palate with good balance; long finish (94 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Coutet – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
    Light medium golden color; botrytis, baked pear, apricot nose; rich, tasty, pear, baked pear, light apricot palate; long finish 93+ points (75% Semillon, 23% Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Muscadelle) (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Fargues – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light golden color; botrytis, powdered sugar, apricot tart nose; sugary, apricot tart palate with lowish acidity; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
  • 2009 Château de Rayne-Vigneau – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light medium golden color; baked orange, botrytis, honeyed nose; tasty, honey, baked orange, orange peel palate; long finish (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Doisy-Daëne – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light golden color; light footed, delicate, ripe pear nose; delicate, ripe pear, botrytis, powdered sugar, golden raisin palate; long finish 92+ points (87% Semillon, 13% Sauvignon Blanc) (92 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Guiraud – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light golden color; focused, baked pear, pineapple nose; tasty, complex, pineapple, ripe pear, light herbs palate; long finish (65% Semillon, 35% Sauvignon Blanc) (94 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light medium golden color; poached pear, apricot, baked apple nose; sweet, baked apple, poached pear palate with low acidity; long finish (88 pts.)
  • 2009 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light medium golden color; appealing, apricot, baked apricot nose; baked apricot, botrytis, powdered sugar palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Château Suduiraut – France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Light medium golden color; appealing, rich, ripe apricot, baked apricot nose; lush, concentrated, apricot, baked apricot, poached pear palate; long finish (93% Semillon, 7% Sauvignon Blanc) (94 pts.)
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