2012 La Paulée de San Francisco Burgundy Grand Tasting
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singing Tastevins at La Paulée (photo by Gary Chevsky)
Since March 2000, when the first of these events was held in New York City, Daniel Johnnes has organized a weekend of Burgundy events called La Paulée, named after the grand gala held in Meursault every year in celebration of the harvest. The event now occurs annually in New York and every other year in San Francisco.
I attended the three-hour grand tasting session this year, as I have the last two occasions when it has been held in San Francisco. There were fewer producers pouring at the $300 a ticket event this year–27 versus 35 in 2010. The decline in participating producers may have had something to do with the vintage being showcased this year–2009–which has been such a successful vintage that many domaines quickly sold out of their production.
As has been the case with the prior La Paulée events, there were also a host of local restaurants represented, offering small bites designed to accompany the wines on hand. Those restaurants included A16, Boulevard, Frances, Jardiniere, Michael Mina, Piperade, Quince, RN74 and The Slanted Door.
Because the offerings were dominated by the delicious 2009 vintage and so many excellent producers, many of whom were pouring wines from their top appellations, there was truly an abundance of great wines at this event. Producers responsible for one or more wines that I rated 94 points or higher were Ballot-Millot, Bonneau du Martray, François Carillon, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Faiveley, Fourrier, Michel Lafarge, Comtes Lafon, Ponsot and La Pousse d’Or.
My top wines of the tasting, with ratings of 94 points and higher, are:
2009 Ballot-Millot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes – 94 points
2009 Ballot-Millot Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières – 95 points
2009 Ballot-Millot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières – 97 points
2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne – 94 points
2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne – 95 points
2009 François Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières – 94 points
2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières – 94+ points
2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bâtard-Montrachet – 94 points
2009 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley – 94 points
2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne – 95 points
2009 Domaine Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin Vieille Vigne – 97 points
2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes – 94 points
2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes – 94 points
2009 Domaine Ponsot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze – 94 points
2009 Domaine Ponsot Clos St. Denis Très Vieilles Vignes – 94+ points
2009 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes – 95+ points
2009 La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru En Caillerets – 94 points
2009 La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or – 94 points
For my detailed tasting notes and further comments on selected producers, see below:
Ballot-Millot
These very fine whites from this Meursault-based producer were some of the best wines of the tasting. Their Les Perrières was one of my highest rated wines of the tasting, and definitely the greatest ’09 white Burgundy I’ve tasted so far. Charles Ballot took over as winemaker of this 30-acre domaine in 2000, and claims to be the 15th generation of the family involved in winegrowing and winemaking. To keep yields low they employ strict pruning rather than green harvesting. They also use relatively small amounts of new oak, no more than 25%. They try to encourage a long, slow alcoholic fermentation, to keep the lees moving, because they don’t use bâtonnage. The whites are kept in barrel for a year, and then racked into tank for six months before bottling. The domaine’s Les Perrières vines are over 40 years old; their Les Genevrières vines are the oldest of all, at over 65 years.
- 2009 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault Les Narvaux – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Light yellow color; ripe apple, poached pear nose; tasty, tart pear, tart apple, mineral, lemon palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.) - 2009 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; very appealing, white flower, poached pear nose; poised, ripe pear, mineral, ripe lemon palate; needs 4 years; long finish (94 pts.) - 2009 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; lovely, tart lemon, mineral, jasmine nose; tasty, rich but poised, tart pear, ripe lemon, mineral palate; needs 3-plus years; long finish (95 pts.) - 2009 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow color; white flower, chalk, mineral, tart pear nose; elegant, mineral, chalk, tart lemon, lemon peel palate; needs 6-plus years; long finish (a standout!) (97 pts.)
Bonneau du Martray
This domaine, which has been passed down through one family since the time of the French Revolution, consists of 27.4 acres centered on Corton. About 23.5 acres are made up of the great white grand cru Corton-Charlemagne, and the rest is red Corton. Different plots are vinified separately, spending an initial year in barrel and then going into stainless steel for some months before blending and bottling. Since Comte Jean-Charles le Bault took over in 1994, yields have been reduced.![]()
photo by Gary Chevsky
- 2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Light yellow color; focused, ripe lemon, mineral, white flower nose; tasty, poised, tight, tart lemon, mineral palate with medium acidity; needs 7-plus years; long finish (94 pts.) - 2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Light yellow color; focused, ripe lemon, lemon peel, mineral nose; tasty, elegant, rich but poised, tart lemon, mineral, tart pear palate; needs 5-plus years; long finish (95 pts.)
Bouchard
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Bouchard Père et Fils started back in 1731, and over the decades and generations that followed, the domaine amassed a staggering number of prime vineyard parcels, ultimately becoming the largest vineyard owner in the Côte d’Or. In 1995, the company was sold to Champagne-based entrepreneur Joseph Henriot. Some of the monopoles (single-owner vineyards) they own include Clos de la Mousse, Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus and Clos St-Landry. I wrote a rather strongly worded post last year here about the high levels of stem inclusion in Bouchard’s 2009 reds. The one ’09 red in this flight, the Clos de la Mousse, was consistent with what I had previously tasted, and complained about. The two ’09 Meursaults, however, were quite lovely, as was the ’08 Corton-Le Corton.
- 2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow color; tart apple, white flower, lemon nose; tasty, tart lemon, chalk, tart apple, white flower palate; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow color; aromatic, ripe lemon, white flower, tart pear nose; tasty, tight, white flower, tart pear, apple, mineral lemon, chalk palate; needs 7 years; long finish 93+ points (93 pts.) - 2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Light medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; sous bois, mineral, tart strawberry nose; sous bois, stems, mineral, lemon palate; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish 88+ points (88 pts.) - 2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Le Corton – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Light medium cherry red color; roses, tart strawberry, mineral nose; tight, tart red fruit, roses, mineral palate; needs 10 years; long finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
Carillon (François)
François Carillon is the son of Louis Carillon, whose white wines were long among the best of Puligny-Montrachet. With the 2009 vintage, the domaine was divided between François and brother Jacques. François’s portion is 16 acres, and he is continuing his family’s strong tradition. These were terrific, minerally, complex wines, all of which deserve some years of bottle age before they can be enjoyed to their fullest. For my post on a visit by François to Palo Alto’s Vin Vino Wine last year, including video clips of him talking about the division of the domaine with his brother, click here.
- 2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Light yellow color; lovely, tart pear, apple, jasmine nose; tasty, poised, tart apple, jasmine, mineral palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow color; mineral, jasmine, tart pear nose; delicious, tight, tart pear, mineral, lemon palate; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.) - 2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow color; focused, tart pear, jasmine nose; tart lemon, mineral, chalk palate, a little austere; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish 93+ points (93 pts.) - 2009 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow color; focused, poached pear, tart apple nose; tasty, tart pear, apple, mineral palate; needs 4 years; medium-plus finish (94 pts.)
Colin-Morey (Pierre-Yves)
In 1995, Pierre-Yves Colin took over the winemaking at his father’s Domaine Marc Colin. In 2001 he established a negociant business with his wife Caroline Morey called Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. In 2005, after the harvest, he left the family domaine entirely, taking his 14.8 acre share of vineyards with him. Pierre-Yves avoids battonage (so as to help prevent premature oxidation), and does not encourage malolactic fermentation. As another measure against premox, the domaine’s bottles are sealed with wax over corks that are not treated with peroxide. Most of the wines are kept in barrel on their lees for up to 18 months. These are excellent wines, for which Pierre-Yves is fast gaining a strong reputation.
- 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Light yellow color; lovely, tart lemon, lemon chiffon nose; creamy textured, tart lemon, mineral, chalk palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish (great value) (92 pts.) - 2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow color; wow, floral, white flower, mineral, tart pear, lemon nose; complex, tart lemon, floral, mineral, tart pear palate; needs 4 years; long finish (93 pts.) - 2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; tart lemon, grapefruit, mineral, floral nose; mineral, tart lemon, tart grapefruit, chalk palate; long finish 94+ points (94 pts.) - 2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bâtard-Montrachet – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Light yellow color; ripe lemon, lemon mousse, cream nose; tasty, creamy textured, ripe lemon, lemon mousse palate with good acidity; needs 7 years; long finish (94 pts.)
de Montille
- 2009 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; focused, tart pear, mineral, poached pear nose; tart poached pear, mineral palate; medium finish (91 pts.) - 2009 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
Light yellow color; tart pear, apple nose; tart pear, tart apple, tart lemon, mineral palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Deux Montille Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Le Sous Fretille – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; lifted, ripe pear nose; ripe pear, poached pear, white flower palate; medium finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2009 Deux Montille Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; focused, white flower, poached pear nose; white flower, poached pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.) - 2009 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light-medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; focused, tart cherry, toasted red fruit, tart red berry nose; tart red berry, mineral, sous bois, stems, smoke palate; needs 4 years; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2007 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Bricking light red color with pale meniscus; dried red berry, cinnamon, mineral nose; dried red berry, rosehips, mineral palate with grip; ready now; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
Drouhin
- 2009 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Light yellow color; lemon pie, ripe pear nose; ripe pear, lemon pie palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.) - 2009 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; tart lemon, lemon mousse, mineral nose; lemon cream, ripe pear, tart apple palate; needs 2-3 years; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2009 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color; floral, baked strawberry, roses nose; delicate, tart cherry, red fruit, roses, mineral palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color; roses, oak, tart cherry nose; tasty, tight, tart cherry, sous bois, mineral, roses palate; needs 6-plus years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
Faiveley
I have been really enjoying Domaine Faiveley’s richer, earlier accessible wines under Erwan Faiveley’s regime, starting with the ’06 vintage, and really showing in ’07, with renovations to the cellars and changes in vinification under General Manager Bernard Hervet. For more background on the changes at Faiveley, see my 2009 report.![]()
photo by Gary Chevsky
- 2009 Château du Moulin-a-Vent Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour – France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Dark ruby color; ripe cherry, red berry nose; tasty, poised, tart red berry, red currant, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.) - 2009 Faiveley Beaune 1er Cru Clos de l’Ecu – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color; appealing, ripe cherry, strawberry nose; tasty, tart strawberry, tart cherry, mineral palate; needs 3 years; medium finish (90 pts.) - 2009 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; appealing, tart cherry, sous bois nose; tart red fruit, sous bois, mineral palate; needs 6-plus years; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.) - 2009 Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Medium red color with pale meniscus; reduction, tart red fruit nose; tart red fruit, reduction, mineral palate with medium acidity; needs 8 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; roses, tart cherry, red fruit nose; roses, tart red fruit, tart cherry, mineral palate; needs 8-plus years; long finish (94 pts.)
Fèvre
I had tasted a number of the 2009 Fèvre Chablises half a year ago, and these showed as well or better than those. The acidities are the best I’ve yet tasted on Chablises from this vintage, which was a relatively ripe one.![]()
photo by Gary Chevsky
- 2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis – France, Burgundy, Chablis
Light yellow color; focused, tart lemon, mineral nose; tasty, mineral, tart lemon, chalk palate; needs 1-2 years; medium finish (90 pts.) - 2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montmains – France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; mineral, tart lemon nose; tight, tart lemon, mineral, chalk palate; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent – France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; focused, tart lemon, mineral, lemon blossom nose; tart lemon, mineral, ripe lemon palate; needs 6-plus years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
Fourrier
This domaine, previously known as Fourrier-Pernot, has been going for four generations. Jean-Marie Fourrier took over from his father in 1994 after completing six-month internships with both Henry Jayer and Domaine Drouhin in Oregon. The domaine is blessed with very old vines, and Jean-Marie practices very low intervention winemaking. He does entirely destem (following the practice of his mentor Jayer). He uses manual punch downs two to four times a day, but no pumpovers. He uses a minimum of new wood–20% for all the appellations. The wines are kept in barrel for about 16 months, with no racking, before going into tank two months before bottling. The results are most impressive–among the greatest young red Burgundies I’ve ever tasted.![]()
photo by Gary Chevsky
- 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light medium red color with pale meniscus; focused, tart strawberry, floral, mineral nose; tasty, focused, tart cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Light red color with pale meniscus; floral, rosehips, dried cherry nose; rosehips, tart red fruit, dried cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 93+ points (93 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light-medium red color with pale meniscus; floral, hibiscus, lilly, tart red fruit nose; delicate, tart cherry, mineral, floral, lilly palate; needs 6-plus years; medium-plus finish (95 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin Vieille Vigne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; effusive, tart cherry, tart strawberry, roses nose; tasty, tart red fruit, tart strawberry, mineral, roses palate; long finish (wow!) (97 pts.)
Giroud (Camille)
- 2009 Camille Giroud Santenay 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color; strawberry ice, raspberry sherbet nose; soft, tart raspberry, roses, tart cherry palate; needs 4-plus years; medium-plus finish (91 pts.) - 2009 Camille Giroud Beaune 1er Cru Cent-Vignes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Light cherry red color with pale meniscus; baked cherry, baking spice nose; baking spice, tart baked cherry palate; medium finish 90+ points (90 pts.) - 2009 Camille Giroud Vosne-Romanée – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Medium dark cherry red color; appealing, baked cherry, baked raspberry nose; tasty, baked raspberry, baked cherry, mineral palate; needs 4 years; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Camille Giroud Chambertin – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Light medium red color with pale meniscus; roses, tart red fruit, tart strawberry nose; tart strawberry, mineral, tart red fruit palate; needs 7 years; long finish 92+ points (92 pts.)
Gouges (Henri)
- 2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; floral, ripe cherry, oak nose; tight, tart cherry, black cherry, mineral palate; needs 7-plus years; medium-plus finish (89 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Light medium red color; roses, rosehips nose; tart red fruit, roses, rosehips, mineral palate; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; reduction, tart cherry nose; reduction, tart cherry, mineral palate; needs 8 years; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium red color with pale meniscus; floral, roses, tart red fruit nose; tasty, tart cherry, roses, mineral palate; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.)
Hospices de Beaune
- 2009 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow color; poached pear, apple, white flower nose; tight, tart pear, poached pear, white flower palate; needs 4-plus years; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Hospices de Beaune Beaune 1er Cru Cuvée Nicolas Rolin – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color; ripe cherry, baked cherry, oak nose; tight, ripe cherry, baked cherry, french oak palate; needs 8-plus years; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2009 Hospices de Beaune Pommard 1er Cru Les Épenots Cuvée Dom Goblet – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; oak, red berry nose; oak, tart red berry, mineral palate; needs 7 years; medium-plus finish 88+ points (88 pts.) - 2009 Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Cuvée Madeleine Collignon – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; ripe cherry, cinnamon nose; ripe cherry, light cinnamon, mineral palate; needs 7 years; medium-plus finish 89+ points (89 pts.)
Jadot
- 2009 Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé Domaine J. A. Ferret – France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé
Light yellow color; tart lemon, mineral, lemon cream nose; lemon cream, mineral, tart apple palate; medium finish (90 pts.) - 2009 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Light yellow color; ripe lemon, white flower, tart apple nose; tasty, appealing, bright, tart apple, tart pear, mineral palate; good now; medium finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2009 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru 150 ans – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; nice roses, tart cherry, tart red fruit nose; tasty, tart red fruit, roses, mineral palate; pretty now; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; ripe cherry, oak, baked cherry nose; tart red fruit, mineral, tart black cherry palate; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
Lafarge (Michel)
It was a treat to see Michel Lafarge at this event. He looks about 20 years younger than his true age, somewhere in his mid-80s. He joined his father in wine production in 1949, and his son Frédéric joined him in 1978. They have farmed biodynamically since 2000. No new oak is used on the whites, and very little–usually only 15% on the top appellations–on the reds. The reds were very strong and should age beautifully.![]()
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photos by Gary Chevsky
- 2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots Blanc – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Light yellow color; focused pear, tart apple nose; tart pear, mineral, tart apple palate; medium finish (88 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
Light red color with pale meniscus; light brett, tart strawberry, mineral nose; mineral, tart red fruit, rosehips palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light red color with pale meniscus; tart cherry, mineral, chalk nose with light sense of soy sauce; tasty, focused, tart cherry, tart red fruit, mineral palate with grippy tannins; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light red color with pale meniscus; mineral, old roses, tart cherry, baking spice nose; tasty, delicate, refined, tart cherry, baking spice, mineral palate; needs 7-plus years; long finish (94 pts.)
Lafon
This domaine, which has long produced some of Burgundy’s greatest white wines, is now farmed biodynamically. Dominique Lafon, who has been in charge since 1985, is lucky to have inherited some of the best vineyard sites in Meursault and Volnay, as well as a .8 acre slice of Le Montrachet. The Charmes was particularly impressive.![]()
photo by Gary Chevsky
- 2010 Dominique Lafon Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette – France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Chardonnay
Light yellow color; tart apple, floral, pear nose; tasty, ripe pear, tart apple, mineral palate; medium finish (89 pts.) - 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Light yellow color; lovely, lifted, tart pear, white flower, apple nose; tasty, ripe pear, tart apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; lovely, jasmine, ripe pear, white flower nose; delicious, delicate, tart pear, jasmine, mineral palate; long finish (94 pts.)
Leroux (Benjamin)
- 2009 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embazées – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; reduction, tart lemon nose; reduction, tart lemon, mineral palate; medium finish 86+ points (86 pts.) - 2009 Benjamin Leroux Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow color; reduction, tart lemon nose; reduction, tart lemon palate; medium finish (87 pts.) - 2009 Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru Mitans – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color; brett, tart red fruit nose; brett, tart red fruit, mineral, rosehips palate; medium-plus finish (87 pts.) - 2009 Benjamin Leroux Clos St. Denis – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
Medium dark cherry red color; tart cherry, roses nose; tight, tart cherry, roses, mineral palate with medium acidity; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
Méo-Camuzet
- 2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Fixin 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin 1er Cru
Medium dark cherry red color; ripe cherry, ripe raspberry, baked cherry nose; ripe cherry, framboise palate; medium finish 88+ points (nice in ripe, lush style) (88 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; ripe cherry, strawberry nose; rich, ripe cherry, raspberry palate; needs 4-plus years; medium-plus finish (91 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium dark cherry red color; ripe cherry, floral, baked raspberry nose; ripe cherry, floral, baked raspberry palate; needs 7-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Perrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; floral, ripe cherry, raspberry nose; tight, tart raspberry, roses, mineral palate with great structure; needs 10 years; long finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
Moreau (Bernard)
- 2010 Domaine Bernard Moreau & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
Light yellow color; ripe lemon, mineral nose; tasty, tart lemon, mineral, chalk palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Bernard Moreau & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow color; tart lemon, tart apple nose; tasty, tart lemon, mineral, tart apple palate; needs 6-7 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Bernard Moreau & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow color; floral, tart lemon, tart pear nose; tasty, tart lemon, mineral palate; needs 4-plus years; medium-plus finish (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Bernard Moreau & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow color; tart apple, white flower nose; tasty, tight, tart pear, tart apple, white flower, mineral palate; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
Ponsot
This domaine dates back to the 1870s. Laurent Ponsot, pictured below, has been the winemaker since the early 1980s. He has a very idiosyncratic approach to farming and winemaking. The latter is highly non-interventionist, including letting the grapes ferment as long as they wish with very little temperature control. No new wood is used–in fact many of the barrels are 10 or more years old. The Clos de la Roche, from the domaine’s very large 8.28 acre parcel of this great grand cru, was particularly complex and delicious, but it’s an amazing line up over all.![]()
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photos by Gary Chevsky
- 2009 Domaine Ponsot Corton-Bressandes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Medium dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; lovely, floral, tart strawberry, saline nose; delicate, tart strawberry, mineral, floral palate; needs 4-plus years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Ponsot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Medium red color with pale meniscus; lovely, tart strawberry, mineral, dried roses nose; tasty, elegant, tart strawberry, mineral palate with medium acidity; needs 5-plus years; long finish (94 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Ponsot Clos St. Denis Très Vieilles Vignes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
Light medium red color with pale meniscus; lovely, tart strawberry, savory, mineral nose; tasty, accessible, very detailed, tart strawberry, tart cherry, mineral, roses palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 94+ points (94 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Medium garnet red color with pale meniscus; appealing, light roses, tart cherry, tart red fruit nose; tasty, sappy, tart cherry, roses, mineral palate with medium acidity, and depth and grip; needs 4-5 years; long finish 95+ points (95 pts.)
Pousse d’Or
This domaine, with vineyards that originally belonged to the Dukes of Burgundy, has been owned by Patrick Landanger since 1997. He had no prior winemaking experience, but has been his own winemaker since 1999, with the help of vineyard consultants and oenologists. He has purchased additional choice vineyards over the past several years, and built a six-level gravity flow winery, to eliminate the need for any pumping. I am usually a fan of the top appellations of this domaine, and the 2009s are showing very well.![]()
photo by Gary Chevsky
- 2009 La Pousse d’Or Chambolle-Musigny – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Medium cherry red color; very aromatic, tart cherry, roses nose; roses, tart cherry, mineral palate with grip; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru En Caillerets – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Medium dark cherry red color; roses, rich raspberry, cherry nose; delicious, tart cherry, mineral, elegant, floral palate; needs 6 years; medium-plus finish (94 pts.) - 2009 La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Medium ruby color; very appealing, ripe cherry, raspberry, mineral nose; elegant, ripe cherry, raspberry, mineral palate; needs 5 yeras; medium-plus finish (94 pts.) - 2009 La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Medium ruby color; tart cherry, baking spice nose; tight, tart cherry, baking spice, mineral palate; needs 7 years; long finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
Roulot (Guy)
- 2009 Domaine Guy Roulot Bourgogne Blanc – France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Light lemon yellow color; rich, poached pear, apple nose; ripe, tart apple, poached pear, mineral palate; medium finish (90 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Guy Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Light lemon yellow color; focused, tart pear, white flower nose; tight, tasty, tart pear, mineral, white flower palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Guy Roulot Meursault Les Tillets – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Light lemon yellow color; appealing, minerally, tart apple nose; delicate, mineral, tart apple palate with medium acidity; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish 93+ points (93 pts.) - 2009 Domaine Guy Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light lemon yellow color; appealing, tart pear, poached pear nose; tasty, tight, tart pear, mineral, poached pear palate; long finish (93 pts.)





















Thanks for your excellent coverage and photos.
well written, enjoyable to read, simple concise description…esp wrt the winemaking techniques, quite educatiobnaal…thank you